Restaurant Evaluate: Grand Trunk Highway, South Woodford, London

In his e-book Kim, Rudyard Kipling described The Nice Trunk Highway, Asia’s oldest and longest street as “such a river of life as nowhere else exists on this planet”. These phrases discuss with the wealth of tradition and religions and certainly flavours encountered alongside some 2,400 km /1,491 miles that stretch from Kabul to Kolkata. It’s a Large Learn.

Rajesh Suri, the colourful proprietor of the restaurant of the identical title should absolutely agree with the sentiment. In spite of everything, he has traversed that street choosing up age-old recipes in every place and honed them into high quality eating creations served up in South Woodford within the east of London. It’s a Large Eat.

It appears fairly a feat however then once more Rajesh has gained the BIBA Award and Restaurant Persona of the 12 months award, introduced Michelin star glamour to his previous culinary endeavours in high quality Indian delicacies and took part in Masterchef as a choose. 

Are you able to think about how a lot I used to be wanting ahead to the culinary journey forward?


Grand Trunk Road

Grand Trunk Highway restaurant

Rajesh is singularly charming, with a conviviality that permeates all corners of the lengthy, darkly lit restaurant. A gold lattice panel black-lit in amber hues and a vibrant bar provides a contact of grandeur to an in any other case easy decor.

The proficient workforce are attentive and really pleasant and the sounds of comfortable diners, laughing and chatting round plain wooden tables, was uplifting. Frankly, I couldn’t wait to take my very own seat and tuck into the menu’s choices. 


Dishes from the Grand Trunk Road menu

Dishes from the Grand Trunk Highway menu

The menu stays true to its heritage. There’s no beef or pork reflecting the dietary preferences of Muslim and Hindu religions which might be prevalent in South Asia. However oh boy, the rooster, lamb, and fish are so filled with flavour it’s paramount to savour each mouthful. 

Even the curly popadoms, each plain and spicey, are crispy, not greasy and able to dip into 4 tangy dips – beetroot and fennel, mango with chilli flakes, recent mint yoghurt and carrot and ginger. 


Dill Ki Chat

One in every of my pet Indian snacky dishes is Dilli Ki Chaat and this regarded pretty wearing purple flowers. This rustic street-food starter includes wheat crisps, spicy chickpea, candy yoghurt, recent mint and tamarind chutney and is a kind of morish snacks that begs to be completed.

The rooster chapel kebab merely bounces with the flavours of child spinach, caramelised onion, coriander, floor spices and comes topped with spicy tongue titillating beetroot cream cheese. Scrumptious and smooth, maybe a tad too smooth as just a little extra texture would have made this beautiful.

Peshwari lamb chops

Peshwari lamb chops

“Indian meals all the time tastes higher after a very long time in spices – it’s a means of osmosis”.

The Peshwari Lamb Chops, all French cuts, have been completely cooked for hours of their marinade.

Chef Arup Dasgupta mentioned: “Indian meals all the time tastes higher after a very long time in spices – it’s a means of osmosis”.

Actually, their smooth succulent juiciness was given a turbocharge by the charring and marinade. The combo comprised fennel star anis, uncooked papaya and crushed spices. It was served with a playful Indian model of mint sauce. 

These are so good that once I was distracted by the waiter my eating associate cheekily swiped mine. I promptly ordered 4 extra to take out so I wouldn’t miss out.

The stone bass fish was a cheerful shock. This hefty fish comes marinated in a fragile mustard sauce with a coconut marinade that every one melded very effectively collectively.

There’s a profusion of flavoursome aspect dishes included Zafrani Pulao, a basmati rice dish with entire spices, cumin and saffron, Dhaba Dal, a lentil dish cooked in a single day, with tomato & fenugreek, completed with cream and Chatpate Aloo potatoes marinated in mustard seeds, ginger, inexperienced chillies and recent coriander.

The nan breads together with a scrumptious tandoori roti and apple and smoked cheese nan are served in able to dip triangles.

The desert was, shall I say, a most uncommon scoop of rose avocado ice cream with inexperienced pistachio, a set of intriguing flavours.

The Drink

I all the time discover it exhausting to pair Indian meals with something apart from beer and definitely not cocktails. Vik, the mixologist, assured me that cocktails are a should. He has taken the core of fashionable cocktails and added a splash of Indian panache. The Flip & Twist Kraken rum, lime, mint, Tamarind syrup raspberry and jaggery did the job. However then once more so did the Masala Smash, a  mix of whisky, Angostura Bitters, apple Juice, lemon, and Garam Masala syrup.


I can’t assist questioning if Mr Kipling might dine right here whether or not he would recognise that “river of life” within the flavours of the dishes so lovingly curated by Rajesh Suri.

Extra information: The Grand Trunk Highway Restaurant 

Take a look at the menu: Grand Trunk Highway menu

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