Restaurant assessment: Kanishka by Atul Kochhar, Mayfair, London

Indian high-quality eating has turn into fairly the queen bee in London’s culinary scene, with some current openings together with the glitzy Farzi Cafe and lavishly furnished Chokhi Dhani in Battersea.

We had been excited to go to Kanishka by Atul Kochhar, which opened on Maddox Road in Mayfair earlier this 12 months. The Michelin-starred chef has curated an thrilling menu impressed by the so-called Seven Sisters states in north-eastern India, together with Assam and Naharlagun.

The restaurant has a stylish “London” vibe with monochrome flooring, cerulean partitions and a naked ceiling adorned with twisting rope that immediately made me consider pipe cleaners. Stone tables, brightly lit lamps and potted vegetation full the enjoyable, eccentric look.

Cheerful interior of Kanishka

Cheerful inside of Kanishka (c) Johnny Stephens

Earlier than our meal, we loved a glass of bubbly on the bar and took within the environment. Clean jazz tinkled by way of the audio system, and there was a cheerful hum of chatter that put me immediately comfortable. 

The meals

The a la carte menu was simply two-pages lengthy, however each dish sounded mouth-wateringly good. Atul has put collectively a wonderful menu of north Indian delicacies with a nod to British favourites similar to venison, scallops and even the standard pie. My eating accomplice selected Atul’s Hen Tikka Pie with cumin-scented berry compote, which we had been knowledgeable is a fan favorite.

I used to be torn between the smoked chilli spiced scallops and grilled pigeon breast with beetroot ketchup and pine nuts – our waiter satisfied me to order the latter as he promised it packed a punch (I like my spicy meals).

Atul’s Chicken Tikka Pie

Atul’s Hen Tikka Pie (c) Lucy Woods

Grilled pigeon breast with beetroot ketchup

Grilled pigeon breast (c) Lucy Woods

Whereas ready for our starter, we nibbled on some fancy popadoms with completely spiced chutney. When our first course arrived, I used to be surprised by the colors and textures on our plates: fiery reds, oranges and yellows had been accompanied by vibrant bursts of inexperienced herbs.

My eating accomplice took her first mouthful and promptly exclaimed: “This rooster tikka pie is genius.” The flaky pie resembled an orange spaceship, and when reduce into, oozed with heat rooster tikka filling. My pigeon breast was mild and scrumptious, with its punchy beetroot ketchup and delicate shimeji mushrooms.

Rogani Boti Kanishka

Rogani Boti (c) Lucy Woods

Lamb Biryani Kanishka

Lamb Biryani (c) Lucy Woods

For the principle course, I selected the Rogani Boti: Tandoor smoked Romney lamb rump with candy potato, spiced gravy and keema parcel. The lamb was pink, tender and reduce like butter. The candy potato complemented the dish effectively, and the keema parcel was fairly the tasty mouthful. I additionally tried the Kanishka signature black dahl, which was a revelation – I like to recommend ordering this facet with any of the principle programs.

My eating accomplice ordered the lamb Biryani, which was encased in a sealed crust and served with burani raita sauce. She was impressed with the flavours of the dish, however it was slightly fiery for her tastes.

High tip: Each dish we ordered was effectively spiced and had fairly the warming impact, so if you happen to can’t deal with spicy meals, ask the waiter to dial down on the chillies.

Rose Bhapa Doi Kanishka

Rose Bhapa Doi (c) Lucy Woods

For dessert, we shared a Rose Bhapa Doi, a vegetarian-friendly glass of steamed rose-scented yoghurt with watermelon granita and honeycomb. It was candy and light-weight, and I loved the crunch of the honeycomb.

Verdict

Kanishka has a vibrant, unpretentious environment, and the meals actually speaks for itself. Simply don’t order too many sides as you gained’t have the ability to waddle out the door after your meal.

Reality File

Opening hours: Kanishka is open Monday to Saturday from 12 midday to 12am and Sunday from 5:30pm to 11pm.

Getting there: The tackle is 17-19 Maddox Road, Mayfair, London, W1S 2QH. The closest tube station is Oxford Circus, and it’s a five-minute stroll to the restaurant.


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