Hungarian meals typically brings up ideas of goulash and different spicy dishes developed over 1000’s of years of Magyar historical past. It’s typically heavy and rustic, however the meals served on the Turul Venture (Turul means legendary hen) is nothing of the kind.
The undertaking began life as a pop-up and collection of supper golf equipment in 2018 and now has a everlasting residence in an Artwork Deco constructing subsequent to Turnpike Lane station that was as soon as a part of this station.
The restaurant is vibrant and ethereal with an open kitchen and lengthy home windows so we may see the busses coming and going, feeling happy we weren’t going wherever for the subsequent couple of hours.
That is high-quality eating but the decor is informal and easy, comprising white partitions, inexperienced painted wooden and darkish ground tiles.
On the entrance of the venue, overlooking the bustling excessive road and framed by outside seating is a deli and café stocking fine quality, ethically sourced Hungarian merchandise and a wine bar with a variety of wines, a few of that are making their debut within the UK.
There’s an open kitchen past which is the devoted restaurant part with extensive home windows that overlook the bus station.
Meals & Wine
The menu is small. It contains 4 starters, 4 primary programs and simply two desserts. The 29-year-old chef Levente Kappany, hails from Budapest and is the winner of 2020’s San Pellegrino Younger Chef for the Central Europe Area. He instructed us that he appreciated bringing Hungarian flavours to British components whereas providing a modernist twist on conventional dishes. Certainly, the closest factor I may discover to a goulash is the hare which is served as a stew.
We began with a goose liver paté made with a butter lowered Hungarian candy wine Tokaji Aszu. It took centre place surrounded on the plate by small balls of purple wine jelly, apple and cabbage and served with a mini brioche.
This goose liver had been whipped right into a fluffy creaminess made so by a Pakaket ice cream maker and in contrast to every other paté I’ve tasted earlier than. It was so mild and ethereal that the goose liver flavour was an echo somewhat than the same old full-on flavour of a extra densely packed paté.
The smoked trout starter comes flaked on high of dill cream topped with a ribbon of fermented cucumber, sprinkled with caviar and doused in a velouté of liquid fermented cucumber. These flavours are merely excellent collectively.
The monkfish “Paprikas” got here accompanied by a block of pasta layered with curd cheese and bitter cream with a flavour of intense smoky paprika jus.
The cheek of beef was tremendous melt-in-your-mouth softness served with creamy mashed potato, roasted shallot, garlic and an aggressive jus of beef inventory discount. It was excellent.
We washed all this down with a Sabar Rajnai Rizling, a white wine from the Badacsony area. The wine’s advanced notes of honey and pears with a touch of lime labored effectively with the various flavours of the meals.
They don’t do cocktails however do have beers and a few very sturdy spirits. We tried one in every of them, a Szicsek Jonathan apple Palinka which at 44 per cent it was shot with a burn. Apparently, Hungarians drink it like water. Present-offs.
Dessert was cherry sorbet with darkish chocolate cake, and a walnut dumpling served with walnut sorbet. Each had been scrumptious.
The chef has taken Hungarian delicacies far-off from the goulash cliche. This restaurant could also be housed in a former bus station however the meals has come from a spot the place the busses don’t run. Actually Michelin, you need to have a look.
Click on right here to view the menu
Wine Bar 3pm-10pm Tuesday to Saturday
Restaurant 6pm -10pm Tueday to Saturday.
Tackle: Turul Venture, 1, Turnpike Parade, London N15 3LA, turulproject.com
Anticipate to pay round £40 to £50 per head.