Rijeka and the Gulf of Kvarner, Croatia – European Capital of Tradition

Tourism to Croatia has now been given the inexperienced gentle and is among the 25 international locations to welcome British vacationers. 

Vacationers have been coming to Rijeka because the 19th century when Croatia was a part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Wealthy aristocrats spent their summers right here, constructing opulent villas within the Hapsburg model.

They had been attracted by the cobalt waters of the Gulf of Kvarner, with forested mountains tumbling all the way down to the ocean, and the port of Rijeka offered cultural sustenance. It’s been reborn in 2020 as this 12 months’s European Capital of Tradition with greater than 600 occasions deliberate.

View over Rijeka

View over Rijeka

I’m staying within the four* Grand Lodge Bonavia, within the coronary heart of town, not too long ago revamped. My spacious room has a balcony with a view over the rooftops to the harbour and the ocean past.

Town is an fascinating mixture of Hapsburg and Communist structure with its solely skyscraper constructed throughout Mussolini’s time with cash from Al Capone’s accountant. 

A bulk cargo terminal has changed the outdated port and the buildings lie derelict with former President Tito’s yacht sits rotting on the dock. The pedestrian “Korso”, nevertheless, simply behind the seafront, is lined with elegant buildings, retailers and cafes and is surprisingly alive. It’s the place the locals take their night promenade, maybe on their approach to a live performance on the Croatian Nationwide Theatre Ivan Zajc which opened in 1885.

I’m fortunate to catch a efficiency of Rachmaninov and Tchaikovsky and marvel on the ceiling frescoes painted by Gustav Klimt. To look at the sundown, it’s price strolling as much as Trsat Fort, a semi-ruined 13th-century fortress, which has views down the Rječina river to the docks, Adriatic and the island of Krk.




13km west of Rijeka, Opatija was a tiny fishing village till it was found by the Viennese wealthy and well-known. Villa Angiolina, in-built1844, was the primary to host distinguished European aristocrats, together with the Austrian Queen Maria Anna, and the constructing of the Vienna-Trieste railway introduced in the remaining. Russian Tsars, kings from Romania and Sweden, even Isadora Duncan, all flocked right here and constructed their very own stunning belle époque villas.

You’ll be able to see many of those from the Lungo Mare which runs for 12km alongside the seafront from Volosko within the east to Lovran within the west. It lined with grand motels and also you cross by superbly manicured gardens and, though there’s not a lot sand right here, the ocean is crowded with bathers. Sunsets are notably good, so sip a cool drink on the terrace and wallow within the class of the resort.


Krk is Croatia’s largest island, with a inhabitants of round 20,000, and attracts hordes of vacationers in the summertime, though it’s surprisingly simple to get away from them.

Krk city was based by the Romans and nonetheless has components of their outdated partitions and gates, and the Frankopan citadel was constructed within the 12th century. Its streets are too slender for automobiles, so the centre is a captivating pedestrian labyrinth full of craft boutiques and eating places.



Vibrink c Ivan Klindić

10km away, on the Japanese facet of the island, perched on a cliff overlooking the ocean, is the medieval village of Vrbnik. It claims to have the narrowest road on the planet, simply 43cm huge, however the true attraction right here is the meals and the native žlahtina white wine.

Tastings can be found at numerous locations round city, however Nada is among the finest. In addition they have a wonderful restaurant the place you may pattern not simply their white but additionally their glowing Prosek and Bradija pink.


On the southern tip is Baska, a lovely resort set on a wonderful bay. I take a hike alongside the “moon path” path over stark limestone hills, dotted with stone pens nonetheless used for corralling and shearing sheep. I’m fortunate sufficient to see a few uncommon Griffon Vultures, extinct in the remainder of the nation, and solely present in these islands.

I can’t depart with out visiting the 12th century St Lucy church in Jurandvor simply close by. Right here, in 1851 an enormous stone pill was found within the paving, weighing 800kg and relationship from round 1100. It’s inscribed in Glagolitic script, the oldest type of Slavic writing, extensively used from the ninth to the 16th century and information Croatian King Zvonimir’s donation of a bit of land to a Benedictine abbey. It has the primary written point out of the phrase Croatia so it’s an apt place to finish my go to.

Getting there

FLY: Ryanair flies direct to Krk from Stansted.

PACKAGE: Status Holidays has a four-night break in September 2020 from £479 per individual based mostly on two sharing in a regular room on the Grand Lodge Bonavia with BB together with flights from Stansted to Rijeka and shared transfers.

MORE INFO: Kvarner Tourism has details about the area

Recommended Articles