With the ban on overseas journey, British seaside resorts are quick changing into the one place to go. I used to be In Scarborough over 30 years in the past, when it was moderately rundown, and I’m happy to see it has undergone some type of rebirth.
The terraces overlooking the ocean have been spruced up and the gardens by the ocean are immaculate. The harbour nonetheless has a smattering of fishing boats guaranteeing that the fish and chips listed below are a few of the freshest and the theatre has a brand new Alan Ayckbourn play.
The climate outlook for the subsequent few days is about truthful … as it will be in Scarborough.
Scarborough – Filey 16 km, four hours
It’s a stunning sunny day once I arrive, excellent for climbing down the coast to Filey. That is the final leg of the Cleveland Means, a 100 plus mile path that begins north of right here in Helmsley. I set out alongside the promenade at South Bay earlier than climbing up onto Wheatcroft Cliff.
Wanting again, Scarborough’s fortress dominates the port and a few courageous souls are braving the icy North Sea. I keep on alongside the cliffs, the place indicators warn to not get too near the sting, via nice woodland, skirting the odd caravan website.
It’s a straightforward stroll and, getting nearer to Filey, there’s a rocket launcher memorial. It was used for practising firing lifebelts when rescuing stricken seafarers. The Cleveland Means come to an finish at Filey Brigg, the lengthy slender peninsular that juts into the bay simply north of the city.
The Romans have been right here and some earthworks are the one stays of their sign station. I stroll previous them to the tip of the Brigg and scramble down onto the rocks beneath. Fishermen are out in power and it’s exhilarating to be surrounded by water on three sides.
Because it’s low tide I’m capable of comply with the shoreline path to the broad expanse of sand that’s Filey seaside. A slipway leads as much as the enticing previous fishing port, now house to cafes and fish and chip retailers, and I catch the bus again to Scarborough.
Scarborough – Robin Hood’s Bay 20 km, 5½ hours
The forecast predicts rain later so I begin early. I’m taking the Cleveland Means as soon as extra, however this time in the wrong way. Crossing the city, I go rows of multi-coloured seaside huts on North Bay earlier than climbing as much as the cliff path.
The strolling is tougher at this time, the gradients steeper, typically dropping all the way down to cross streams operating via wooded valleys. After three hours I go the stays of an previous radar station, a part of a WW2 early warning system, earlier than arriving in Ravenscar.
When the Scarborough to Whitby railway was inbuilt 1885, somebody had the brilliant concept of making a brand new resort right here.
Sadly, they forgot that it’s difficult to get to the ocean, there’s no sandy seaside and the howling wind isn’t significantly nice. Nonetheless, the plan was solely deserted in 1913 however all that continues to be are a number of homes and the imposing Raven Corridor Lodge.
From right here I go the remnants of one other scheme, this time successful story. Alum, used for fixing dye, was mined right here from the 1650’s till the 1800’s, and ruins of the works and jetties can nonetheless be seen. The trail descends to the seaside and climbs once more to Boggle Gap, house to an remoted Youth Hostel, earlier than persevering with alongside the cliffs.
Robin Hood’s Bay comes into view and I make my approach all the way down to the water’s edge and rejoice with a pint within the Bay Lodge. That is additionally the terminus for the 192 mile Coast to Coast Stroll, and there are a few weary veterans having fun with their well-earned refreshment.
Up to now, the village made its cash from smuggling however now the atmospheric slender lanes are lined with craft retailers and cafes and eating places. It’s deservedly widespread and I stroll up the hill to catch the bus again to Scarborough.
Scarborough-Ravenscar-Scarborough 30 km, 7½ hours
It’s a gray day with mild drizzle, so I resolve to set out once more towards Ravenscar, this time alongside the previous railway line. It’s often called the cinder monitor, as cinders have been used for ballast moderately than stone chipping. Sainsbury’s automobile park is the unlikely begin of the stroll and it leads via housing estates earlier than attending to the countryside.
The road closed in 1965 however the stations are nonetheless standing. From Cloughton, it’s a gradual climb, passing the platforms at Hayburn Wyke, after which although Staintondale Station, now a non-public home, to Ravenscar At 192m, that is the best level on the road, and that’s my cue to show round and comply with the coastal path again to Scarborough.
The wind is whipping up the ocean into breakers crashing onto the rocks and there’s little shelter on the cliffs. Luckily, there’s some respite on the pleasant wooded bay of Hayburn Wyke, with its double waterfalls, excellent for a fast snack. It’s nonetheless an extended haul to Scarborough and it’s a aid to see the fortress lastly showing within the distance. Even higher are the tea and truffles once I arrive again on the resort.
Whitby – Robin Hood’s Bay 15km, 4½ hours
Only some hours for strolling at this time, as I’m travelling again to London later, however I can’t go away with out seeing Whitby. It’s an hour by bus and once I arrive I’m stunned to see a steam practice able to depart from the station. It’s from the North Yorkshire Moors Railway which extends a few of its steam companies right here.
A swing bridge over the River Esk leads me into the previous city and its slender streets and I’m quickly climbing the well-known 199 steps as much as St. Mary’s Church and the ruined abbey. The churchyard and the atmospheric ruins impressed Bram Stoker to write down Dracula when he stayed right here.
There’s a shocking view from the highest with the estuary and harbour unfold out beneath however there’s time to linger. After traversing one other caravan website. I’m quickly in gorgeous coastal surroundings. That is Saltwick Bay, the enticing seaside protected on all sides by two shale outcrops.
Colonies of seabirds populate the cliffs and distinctive Whitby Lighthouse warns ships of the hazards beneath. The strolling is straightforward and Robin Hood’s Bay is quickly in attain. I vow to have one final pint on the Bay Lodge earlier than taking the bus again to Scarborough after which the practice house.
GET THERE: LNER runs rail companies between London Kings Cross and Scarborough through York. Bus companies are frequent within the area.
MORE INFO: Uncover Yorkshire Coast has details about the world.
STAY: The Bike and Boot Inn is a newly renovated boutique resort in South Bay with a wonderful restaurant. It’s designed for energetic company and serves free tea and truffles within the afternoon plus free films within the night. Rooms value from £65.
EAT: The Golden Grid Fish Restaurant by the harbour serves greater than the freshest fish and chips and its menu contains oysters, lobster and scallops.